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Once the Atlantic coast's principal port, today Puerto Limon, 165km east of San José, has a somewhat neglected air. There has been little activity at the harbour since the big-time banana boats started loading at Moín , 8km up the headland toward Tortuguero, and to make things worse, the city was ravaged by the 1991 earthquake, which left a trail of wrecked buildings in its wake. All in all, the place does have some rough edges, and while the scare stories Highland Ticos gleefully tell of the place are a bit exaggerated, it's worth watching your back. Generally speaking, tourists come to Limón for one of three reasons: to get a boat to Tortuguero from Moín, to get a bus south to the beach towns of Cahuita and Puerto Viejo, or to join the annual Carnaval-like celebration of El Día de la Raza (Columbus Day) during the week preceding October 12.



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