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San Salvador El Salvador.

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Sprawling across the Valle de las Hamacas at the foot of the mighty Volcán San Salvador is the urban melee of San Salvador, El Salvador's chaotic, frenetic and polluted capital. It's a city which is unlikely to win many hearts - on first impressions at least - with its crumbling buildings, raucous traffic and surrounding fringe of shantytowns. Earthquakes have robbed the city of most of its colonial architecture and under-investment in public buildings is often painfully obvious, while the legacy of war has left large slices of society without employment or opportunity. The daily theatre that passes for street life in the city centre reflects all of these factors, showing the public face of a metropolis that goes about its business without recourse to many of the advantages of Western cities. For all that, San Salvador is a modernizing city, and the authorities are making a determined effort to create a more attractive environment in the old centro histórico . The plazas and parks have all been renovated and many of the city's street traders moved into indoor markets in order to free up pavement space and aid traffic flow. Extra police have been deployed on the streets and, although much work remains to be done, the city is a more pleasant place to visit than just a few years ago. A stay, however short, in El Salvador's capital is probably inevitable, and many people find it easier to get used to the place than they imagined, appreciating the diversions and services it offers - restaurants, bars, shopping, cinemas - that are unavailable in the rest of the country. Hostels in San Salvador
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