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Travelers eager to rush off into the "real" Alaska tend to overlook cosmopolitan Anchorage - a blend of old and new, urban blight and rural parks - but there is plenty to see, and it's worth spending some time here experiencing big-city Alaska. The city is laid out on a grid; numbered avenues run east-west, lettered streets north-south. Your first stop should be the Anchorage Museum of History and Art , 121 W Seventh Ave (summer Sun-Fri 9am-9pm, Sat 9am-6pm; rest of year Tues-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 1-5pm), an excellent overview of the state and its history told through intricate dioramas, alongside beautiful examples of carved ivory and basketware. The art gallery is notable for the works by Alaska's best known painter, Sydney Laurence, particularly his monumental oil painting of Mount McKinley. Hostels in Anchorage

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