Down the coast from Arraial d'Ajuda - more peaceful, but next in the developers' sights - is Trancoso. You can get there either by bus (about five a day from Arraial d'Ajuda, taking fifty minutes) or on foot . It's a beautiful walk - 12km down the beach from Arraial - but you have to ford a couple of rivers so be prepared to get wet. Once again, there's no shortage of accommodation : Gulab Mahal ($20-35), on the main square, the Quadrado, is highly recommended. Hostels in Trancoso